The introduction of flexible EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) sheeting has greatly improved pond-building techniques. The great strength pond liners provides an extremely durable construction material while its elasticity allows a stretch-ability. This stretch-ability allows the liner to stretch (rather than crack as cement ponds often do) with earth movements or ice pressure, these liners should not be confused with polyethylene?as EPDM is a vastly superior synthetic rubber product. It is comparable in durability and length of life to concrete construction.

PREPARATION - Ponds can be constructed in-ground or aboveground using the pond liner method. For in-ground ponds, dig the excavation at least 18 inches deep with straight sides and a floor with a 2% slope. At the lower end of the 2% slope, dig out a hole 36" in diameter and sloping to 1 ft. This hole is to easily drain and clean the pond. Be sure the pond rim is absolutely level from side to side and end to end. If it is not level, the liner will show on the ?high? side. Remove any sharp rocks. It is a good idea to line the excavation with damp newspapers, building felt or discarded carpet padding for additional protection. You can build the frame for above-ground pools with blocks, bricks or railroad ties, etc. Build to the desired dimensions with a height of 18 to 24 inches. Make sure the rim of the frame is level on all sides. Line the inside of the frame as described above if rough or sharp edges are present.

INSTALLATION - The liner will be more flexible if allowed to warm in the sun. Spread the liner tautly and evenly over the pond excavation or frame, being sure that it is centered with an equal amount of overlap on all sides. If needed, anchor the liner with small weights on the outer edges.

Place garden hose in center and begin to run water onto it. The weight of the water will begin to pull the liner down, stretching and folding it to the contours of the pond. For sharp angles, you may need to make a smooth fold into the corners as the pond fills.

After the pond is full, allow to settle for one day, then drain if you are going to cover the liner with cement (note it is not necessary to cover today?s EPDM liners with cement unless you want the look of a cement pond). On the top and 5 inches back from the edge of the pond, drive in 8 to 12 inch spikes every 12 to 18 inches to hold the liner in place. Then if and only if you are going to cover your liner with cement get 24" wide chicken wire and hook one side on the spikes and run the other side to the bottom of the pond. Use the chicken wire as a structure for the cement. After the cement hardens (approximately 12 hours) rinse with soap and water, then refill pond. We do not recommend building ponds with planting shelves in the hot Southwestern U.S.

Cement Ponds

Dig the pond 24 to 30 inches deep to allow leeway for a finished depth of 18 to 24 inches. Have straight sides and a uniform depth. Line excavation with one-half inch tie rods or use #3 construction wire spaced one foot apart. Have the tie rod frame one inch above the soil to allow the cement to wrap around it. Lay an inexpensive wire mesh over the tie rods for the cement to adhere to. Do not add any rocks or tile, etc. at this point.

Use a mixture of three parts sand to one part plastic cement. Add 1 1/2" fiberglass (Microfiber secondary concrete reinforcement - available at hardware stores) to mix. If ordering a concrete mix, a seven sack pea gravel pump mix at 3000 psi is best. Add one bag of microiber per yard of concrete. Lay the cement all at one time or in layers. Do not cement the sides and bottom at different times. You should have a total of three or four inches of cement. Allow the cement to harden but not dry. It must be kept wet at all times. Sprinkle lighty with water every hour. Do not allow to freeze. Rocks or tiles may now be cemented into place. Fill as soon as the pond is sufficiently hardened to hold water. It is a good idea to either seal or paint the pond.

TO PAINT - The pond must be etched to allow the paint to penetrate the surface. To etch the pond, fill with water and add one gallon of household vinegar for each 200 gallons of water. Allow to et for three days. Drain pond and allow to dry fully. Paint with Nelsonite Rubber Based Pool Paint. Do not dilute or thin paint. Allow the paint to dry seven to ten days. Rinse.

TO SEAL - Make a solution of pure plasic cement and water, mixed to the consistency of paint. Paint this mixture over the entire pond surface. Follow curing instructions before adding plants for fish.

TO CURE -Newly cemented ponds release quantites of free lime into the water which is toxic to fish and plants. By curing the pond, this danger is removed. To cure, mix one-gallon household vinegar to each 200 gallons of water in your pond and let set three days. Empty and rinse thoroughly. Then fill and you are ready to plant.

A faster method is to mix one-gallon muratic acid to four gallons of water. Briskly scrub all surfaces of the pond with this solution using a brush or broom. The cement may buble some as the lime works free. This will not harm the pond. Mix more solution if needed being sure to reach all surfaces. Rinse the pond thoroughly, drain and refill. Your pond is now ready for fish and plants.